Friday, July 23, 2010

bienvenue a la France

YEP WE ARE BACK IN FRANCE... and you have no idea how excited I am to be back here....Its like a long lost home for me even though it has only been three weeks. I think I will be in France withdrawl next week.

To get From San Sebastian to Bayonne, we took two trains, one to the french Spanish border adn the other from the border to Bayonne. It was an easy and short trip.

Upon arriving we walked across a big bridge with lots of flags, some duplicates and some 5 or 6 of the same, even an American, but no Canadian flag. However at the begining of the bridge there was an Israeli flag. We stopped off at my bank on the way to the hotel to tie some loose ends, and they were very helpfull. We checked into the hotel, and then headed out to the post office to mail some stuff to close my bank account and my cell phone. We walked around a bit, and had a small lunch where I had my first experience of basque food when I ordered Pate Basques. It was actually very good, and of course I added mustard, my favourtie condiment. (sorry Gary) Since there wasnt much on the menu for Jessica we asked for a large salad and they happily made it for her with melons, beans and vegetables as her appetizer

Jessicas main course was chocolate mousse...hahaha!!! While I had a BIG bowl of mussels and fries.

We walked then for 30 minutes to the chocolate factory, only to get there and find out the chocolate makers only work in the mornings!!! whats up with that?? Well slightly disappointed, we decided we would come back tomorrow morning when the chocolate makers only work between 9:30 and 10:30 am!!!

We went back for a short nap, and then headed back out on the town to see the city. We walked for a bit, took teh free bus, and saw this beautifull small city. I bought a cookbook from this region, which was signed by the author. While looking for a book, jessica found one of my favourite stores... a stinky cheese store!! And stinky it was, and I was in heaven!! I got to taste some cheese from teh region and bought some for me to snack on.

We continued to walk up and down the steets enjoying the city. We then decided to walk up and down the two sides of the river where most of the resturants are located. We figuered we would wak up one side and down teh otehr and by then we would be able to choose our place for dinner. But each and everyone was one dissapointment after the other to me. My other issue was that since I eat different foods than Jessica and was looking for traditional basque food, Jessica might not like it and thus not enjoy her meal or spend alot of money on food she wont eat. But jessica assured me that since this part of the trip was about me and food that I wanted to continue to learn about and for me to enjoy, it didnt matter to her and I should choose based on what I felt was right. Anyways I wasnt finding what I wanted, so Jessica reccomended asking another local. Only this time he reccomendeda cider place witha 30 euro menu that had 4 options all four of which neither of us even remotely liked.

We didnt stay there. and lucky for us we remembered the list of restaurants n the city adn right next door to our last failure, we found a small 40 seat restaurant owned by husband and wife (wife being the chef, husband working the fron of the house), who cooked traditional BAsque food. We asked for the suggestions and we ended up having a 4 course meal that spanned over 2 hours. For the first time in almost two weeks, Jessica was able to finish almost her entire meal.

Now to analize the meal. We started with a tarte of meat with cheese in a basque sauce. (the description doesnt do teh dish justice, but this is the simplest way to describe it). The flavours,, blended so smoothly from one to the other, nothing overpowering, perfectly seasoned yet such a simple dish.

For apps Jessica had a Smoked salmon Salad and I had Salmon trout tartar with red onion and chives. Again so simple but so amazingly done.

Main course: Jessica had the Poulet Basquaise, (my original entry to basque food). The sauce was so good with just a slight kick from chili peppers, but not nearly overpowering, it actually enhanced teh flavours of the sauce making it a powerfull delicious sauce for the chicken. I had Braised Sheeps Shoulder with a Basque sauce mixed with the cooking reduction. So tender and perfectly seasoned.

For dessert we had the Basque cake (very almondy too much for jessica, borderline for me, although I do love those almonds), and I had this most awesome semi cooked chocolate cake with Creme anglais and whipped cream. It came hot straight from the oven, when we dug into it the chocolate oooooozed out. YUMMY in my tummy.

We were so full we couldnt finish dessert but that was compliments to the chef for all the amazing food.

After dinner I asked to meet with the chef, and we spoke with her, thanking her for the delicious meal. She also gave me her recipe for the chocolate cake.

We walked home along the water (which looked like an oil spill in the night) and are now in bed. Good night

Yehuda and J- Dog

Jessica says although Yehuda wrote this in first person, I put in my two cents..ruff ruff

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